He said before you tear the engine down looking for a pile of metallic shavings inside the engine, do one simple check: Check your voltage regulator. I will spread the word and in the future you have my business. I check the voltage with the Simpson analog meter and the voltage is stable. Time for more meter readings. Sometime the regulator would work, sometimes it would let full power into the battery. Don't forget your chassis grounds.
If you consult the schematics, you will see that the regulator is monitoring voltage coming back from the ignition switch. The Fluke can't refresh that quick. Is it supposed to be negative voltage? When the contacts are not tight against each other, they start to arc and start to pit, causing voltage fluctuation in the electrical system. With the Simpson, you can see the voltage fluctuating. Sometimes my meters gave strange voltage readings.
I called Kawasaki for a replacement ignition switch. I scoured all the Kawasaki internet sites. When unplugging the regulator from the harness plug, you will notice that the harness plug has 6 wires in it. So those are good for sure. I was just hoping someone could pull a rabbit out of a hat.
Got the carby tuned sweet and cleaned the filter and fuel tank. No flipping back and forth I printed out my manual, I like to read them in the evening in my easy chair. Took it out of the garage and it had good power, ran strong. I put the Fluke meter back on the same circuit. I looked for days with no success. When you become a subscriber you get the following information and more! Not like they are real expensive. Links are listed below Retro Future Clean by Kevin MacLeod incompetech.
It had 4 dry rotted tires, a dry rotted seat, years of dirt built up on it, a gas tank full of dried up ethanol and a carburetor full off dried up, varnished fuel. Way too much voltage going back to the battery. I did a engine compression test. If the machine wasn't in such great shape, I wouldn't bother, but the grandkids should have a lot of fun on this. In its present form it falls under fair use and I use it as an expression of my artistic creativity in this production. Other Pics came from Public Domain.
Where should I start to try to figure out this electrical problem? The top left pin is the battery pin. Has good compression, over 140. The digital sampling of the Fluke can't match with what the Simpson Analog meter can do. This is what I found when I tore the switch apart. I have a new coil to install, but common sense tells me it has to be something before that. The top center pin is the voltage monitor pin. If people could see just how good this manual is it would make hitting the subscribe button a no-brainer! Pretty easy to get to it.
I had 4 new tires put on it. I'd appreciate any ideas, I really don't know where to go from here. The problem is that once you have gotten your nifty new product, the kawasaki 94 220 wire diagram gets a brief glance, maybe a once over, but it often tends to get discarded or lost with the original packaging. Does anyone know the process of elimination in a situation like this? I did notice while it was running that the head lights didn't work and only one bulb in the tail light worked. I will just have to break down and buy a hard copy. I'm new so I hope I'm posting in the right place.
My neighbor gave me a nice looking Bayou 220, but I can't get any fire to the plug. It won't start even with starting fluid. Started up and idled repeatedly. It sat there for 4 years with a tank full of ethanol and the fuel petcock left open. The Link I used to find these diagrams is below My photos and clips belong to me as I created them. I put a new battery in it.
Thanks anyway oxidized black, I appreciate the effort. I took my Clymer manual and found the schematic for my year and model and traced down every single wire. Kawasaki 94 220 Wire Diagram can be very useful guide, and kawasaki 94 220 wire diagram play an important role in your products. Second, it had a strange knocking noise on the engine when accelerating. The leads to the coil are different sizes, presumably to prevent reversing polarity, so it seems to be wired properly. The old guy next to me bought it new in 1995. It appears that the wild voltage fluctuations coming from the ignition switch caused my regulator to burn out, which is once again allowing full voltage into the battery.