In theory, this makes sense, but nowhere could I find any answer about this! Fold the 10 wire over and put a lug on it to connect to the same point as the output wire on the alternator. The question is, could this new rebuilt alternator have an issue that would cause a voltage leak? A fuseable link is desired. The other wire is a small guage black wire with yellow stripe that is hooked into the lower side of a two prong green connector that plugs into the back of the alternator. Every vehicle is unique, and research for your particular vehicle is recomended. The voltage sensing wire does not have to be as heavy gauge as the main bat wire.
If it fits, simply push it in until it clicks; if it doesn't, then try inserting it into one of the other two. It turns the alernator on, does not have to have constant voltage. Could it just be that the 1 connector needs to be hooked up to the ignition? The series windings in the cutout relay and current regulator are shown in red. Had both alternator and battery checked. The battery voltage may be recover after battery charging. That's some serious money - and that's just for a few pieces of wire. The white wire with a black stripe should be a ground wire.
Now, I've been doing my research and have come up with a number of things to test, which I will do soon. It has one post for o-ring connector with nut and then the green plastic two wire connector. Seriously, thanks for the lessons. Never have been good at the electric on these things ,Can make them run an go fast tho. I've checked the fuses and all seem fine. Thanks, Dean Sorry, I know this thread is old.
Test battery with volt meter engine off about 12 volt. The armature has a contact point which is just below a stationary contact point. The special feature is a diode that prevents voltage from your alternator to enter your ignition system and allows shutting down of your engine when using the original on-off ignition switch. Harness plug is optional below. On mine, one of em says to run to ignition switch, the other is to run in a loop to the idiot light.
I think that is right, but I would be happy to be corrected! The Toyota internally regulated alternator does not use a ground wire according to the schematic. What does the other one go to? Remove the alternator and bench test it to confirm or deny this as being the problem. Also, the fuseable link is not is prime condition - could this be the problem? That seems high, even for charging a low battery, especially considering it doesn't have feedback in the system I haven't run 1 wire to the ignition key yet. You will need to do some voltage drop testing of several of the wires. This arrangement is typically manufactured as a single part and is referred to as the diode pack or diode trio.
No voltage and the fuse for the 4 gauge power feed wire is open or there are some loose connections. Thanks for confirming my suspicions. If 2 wire reads voltage at terminal 1 it should be the same with the exception of a miniscule probably undetectable drop due to the length of 1 wire. . The output wire gets loop to the big wire on the plug in. Your neighbors will probably not appreciate you revving your car up to 1100 rpm each morning at 7am before you head out to work and it makes your otherwise cool ride annoying to drive.
I'm going to have to go look tonight my key switch and wiring diagram home. Prior to perform inspection and maintenance, make sure that: the battery connections are not reversed, because this will damage the rectifier; do not use high voltage testers, such as a megger, because they will damage the rectifier; remember that battery voltage is always present at the alternator B terminal; do not ground the L terminal while the engine is running; and do not start the engine while the coupler is disconnected from the L and R terminals. If your looking for a high output unit, keep an eye out for your everyday rebuilt re-stamped 63amp. Used only for those that require the stock connector to fit snugly. Usually a line runs from this terminal on the alternator to the starter and from the battery to the starter.
The regulator itself can be a mechanical or solid state device. Having issue with engine running on. The regulator voltage setting cannot be adjusted. The current regulator has a series winding of a few turns of heavy wire shown in red which carrier all generator output. Terminal 4 on the regulator will be connected via small wires to the charge indicator light on the dashboard of the car and the charge resistance wire. Somewhere between the alternator and the ignition switch I need to install a resistor 10 ohm 10 watt , so that when the car is turned off juice doesn't flow backwards from the battery through the exiter to the ignition switch and then to the coil, which would keep the truck running even after I take the key out.
A third comes out of the wiring loom at the back of the alternator but isn't connected to anything - it is a small guage black wire with white strip has its own connector?? The number 2 terminal is used to sense system voltage, and if it is seeing 12. It must be switched, or else it will drain the battery overnight. The coil also gets juice from the ignition switch. This all adds up to the performance and reliability that is expected in a modern vehicle. I don't think they are still in business but if they are or aren't I want to thank them for making the information available I used their info for retrofitting my 56 F100 and it was so simple, using the existing wiring, it almost made me feel pretty stupid. The 3 terminal is connected to the positive side of the battery. The dashboard indicator light circuit also typically has an extra wire with a calibrated resistance in it.
I've got a 3-wire from an early commodore in my '59 Belair. He covers everything: petronix, generators, alternators, cooling systems, relays, suspension, brakes, electrical components, trannys, carbs. This is what I've been told, so I don't want to sound like an engineer expert or anything. The wires from the alternator run to the starter. For the record, I'm going to be making some changes to the electrical systems in my vehicles now that I understand this - I think it's that big of a deal now that I understand how this all works. Landpimp - the earlier model alternators apparently did not come with internal regulator and those wiring diagrams show three or more wires - could explain the difference.